January 16, 2010
Just a note to let you know we are well and having fun along with the usual misadventures. We are in Varanasi now, the ancient holy city of pilgrims, holy men, scam artists and cremations on the river bank "ghats". Last week we saw the Taj Mahal and despite the crowds it fully lived up to its billing. So did the camel safari in Jaisalmer, the spectacular forts in Jodpur and the country charms of Pushkar (and we had a pretty good New Year's party in Udapuir). A few more stories on these episodes should follow.
It took us a long 18 hours to get to Varanasi on an overnight train from Agra, only 600 kms distant. Our original train (with first class sleepers) had been cancelled without notice and we were very lucky to discover this fact on the advice of our auto rickshaw driver in Agra. Of course we immediately assumed the driver was trying to scam us somehow, and we were embarrassed and apologetic when his information proved true. The drivers in Agra are notorious even by Indian standards for their aggressive and persistent tourist herding instincts and straight faced duplicity aimed at lightening your wallet. We went to the train station to see if we could still get a seat, and every reserved seat was booked and the waiting list too long to chance it. (a week of foggy weather has resulted in many train and plane cancellations; we'll check on the internet in the future) So our driver suggested he knew a travel agent who likely had tickets for the evening train. "He pay little bribe with railway men" our driver said. So for not too much more than face value, we got 2nd class sleeper accommodation from Agra to Varanasi that same day. ($12 cdn each). Then he took us to the market to buy blankets for the trip as they are not supplied in 2nd class and he was right when he said it would be cold. ( he didn't even direct us to a specific shop for the requisite kickback!) With a low near 0 C, it was the coldest night of the winter here so far. This rickshaw driver was working on a big and well earned tip! Of course I would like to think the driver saw us for the veteran travellers we like to think we are, and thus adopted the straight forward, honest approach. Actually I think he just happened to be honest. (To Mr. Sing Chin, who has a well honed dislike of drivers and their intentions, I would say, let's just call it a fluke of nature)
kites over cremations at the" burning ghat"
The 12 hour journey took 18 hours. This morning I think I discovered the reason in the local paper. The train ahead of us had a collision killing three people. We were re-routed north through Lucknow. In the morning I had checked the GPS wondered what the hell we we doing so far north!
Anyway 2nd class sleeper was okay with three tier padded sleeping benches; pop up the middle one during the day and everyone sits around together or take turns stretching out on the top bunk. Not overcrowded and not too too dirty. Security was little lax. First class had locked doors and a security
guy with a nice machine gun. 2nd class sees folks opening the doors and leaning out for the view. Crowds of hawkers and a few beggars make their way through at frequent stops (thieves too we are told) We locked our begs to the under seat storage. There were many fine sights along the way with the track running through the valley of the Ganges; so lots of irrigated farming, small villages and people people people.
walk the ghats for miles
We fly to Delhi tomorrow (weather permitting) and Joan connects with her flight to Canada a few days later. I'll meet my buddy Richard in Mumbai next week and head south to Goa and who knows where. In early February I'll connect with my travel guru, the previously noted Mr. Gerry Sing Chin, and his buddy Paul, in Sri Lanka. I'm looking forward to some real heat.
Gerry told us India would wear us down. It does, but I think its been worth it so far.
bull in a silk shop; don't ask me why?
coldest night
fantastic music and spectacle
* Click on photos to enlarge
* More photos at http://s617.photobucket.com/
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